According to Anthony Bourdain, there is no such thing as a bad restaurant in San Sebastían, and it seems only right to go and twest his theory. With pintxo (like elite tapas) bars on every corner, Txakoli (a crisp white wine) flowing freely and the second most Michelin star restaurants per capita in the world, this is a food lover’s paradise. Add in the bays and beaches, nearby mountains and surfing and we think we may have found the perfect town.
Pintxos
Pintxos are small, affordable and easy-to-eat bites served in Pintxos bars on every street in San Sebastian. Similar to tapas they are usually served on top of a small piece of bread or stuffed onto a wooden skewer, showcasing the region's incredible produce from the land and sea. More than just food, The atmosphere of a pintxos bar in San Sebastian will show you it’s about the whole experience, the chatting, the people watching as crowds spill out on to the streets in the warm evening air.
The best way to experience pintxos in San Sebastían is to go on a crawl, either join a curated tour group or just follow your nose. Be sure to try the Gilda, a salty mix of anchovy fillets, guindillo peppers and green olives, which pairs perfectly with a glass of cold Txakoli. Other classics not to miss are garlic prawns, chorizo and manchego, octopus and the ubiquitous tortilla.
San Sebastian’s Michelin Stars
There are 19 Michelin stars in the Basque country, spread across a 25-kilometre area around San Sebastían. Let’s begin at the top, with 3 stars and sitting on Mount Ageldo Akelare is best known for using the freshest local seafood, and blending tradition with innovative touches. Go for lunch to sit on the terrace and take advantage of the amazing views down to the Cantabrian Sea below.
Amelia, offers a small intimate experience, with just one tasting menu and influences from the chef's travels in Italy and Japan.
Michelin-starred restaurants of the Basque Coutry are found at the atmospheric eMe Be Garrote which has a Scandinavian look in an old sidería (cider house) and a tasting menu for $140. For the bnest value in the old town you’ll find Kokotxa, serving a market menu for $90.
La Bretxa Market
When you’ve had enough of San Sebatian Pintxos bars the many Michelin-starred restaurants in the Basque Country, head to La Bretxa market where you’ll be perusing the stalls alongside some of the best chefs in the world. Take the escalator behind the old market building down to the basement floor and check out the eye-popping variety of food stalls. Fresh fish and seafood, charcuterie, butchers, local pastries, fresh fruit and veg and rows upon rows of olives and olive oil.
On Saturday mornings the market spills out into the market square and bustles with locals picking up their weekly shop. Try the local Idiazabal cheese and finish with a coffee in the sunshine.
Txakoli
People have been drinking Txacoli since the 9th century so that gives you some idea of the local love for this light, fruity and slightly sparkling wine. It’s tart, refreshing edge pairs perfectly with rich pintxos and there are wineries all throughout the Basque Country. If you have time a roadtrip through the green Basque past mountains and small villages, tasting Txakoli along the way would make for a terrible time.
Sidrerías in San Sebastian
The cider houses of San Sebastian date back to the 11th and 12th century and are often full to the brim of families, friends and passing tourists filling their cups from huge wooden barrels of cider typical of the region. You’ll be handed a glass when you enter and from there you can head back to the barrel as many times as you’d like. Take note how the locals pour. As cider isn’t carbonated they hold the glass far from the spout of the barrel and as it shoots out it aerates and creates fizz. You’ll get a meal included in your entry fee too (usually around $28) including salt cod, steak, cheese, quince and walnuts to finish.
Basque Desserts
Many a dinner party in recent years has finished with a burnt Basque cheesecake, the desert of San Sebastían that went viral. A cheesecake without a crust, eggs, sugar, cream cheese and cream caramalize in the oven to create a crust-like exterior whilst inside remains luscious and creamy. Other famous sweets include Basque cake, a buttery shortcrust pastry housing almond cream and patxineta, a puff pastry with almonds and pastry cream. If it all gets too much, you can always head to the mountains to hike off the excesses.
Long Story Short...
As you can see San Sebastían is a place for hungry people. With an endless choice of Pintxos bars, and the surrounding Basque country dotted with some of the best Michelin starred restaurants in the world, it’s very rare to leave with an empty stomach.
Written by Laura Sedlak
